Far be it for me to close a door that I never tried to open, so I called the only German school in town, and asked about a tour. Turns out that to be in high school, you need the 6 or 7 years of preparatory elementary school. Makes sense. But they did offer a Saturday morning language course, and adults could take classes too. So all summer long I asked, waiting for it to wane in interest, or be perceived as taking too much time from play, but when the summer ended and school started, the interest was still keen. So I signed us up, and we are both learning.
In the meantime, we have been making Partybrot, Bretzeln (Pretzels) and Austrian flags.
There will be more to come, but, wow, is there ever a lot of words you need to communicate! Back when I was taking German in school, all I imagined needing to say was greetings and a little bit of travel!
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